Guides · Fancy Cuts

Oval Cut

Difficulty

Intermediate

Best after

You are comfortable with a round brilliant

Watch for

The « bow-tie » effect across the center

An elongated brilliant cut that showcases color well and suits pendants, earrings, and rings alike. If you have not yet cut a round brilliant, start there first, an oval is essentially the same tier logic stretched along one axis.

What makes it different

The oval is a stretched round brilliant, the same tiers and meet-point logic apply, but facets along the long axis are proportionally longer than those at the rounded ends. Getting that elongation to look even, rather than lopsided, is the main skill this cut adds beyond a round brilliant.

Step by step

Orient the design to the rough

Ovals are efficient for naturally elongated rough, minimizing waste compared to forcing a round shape from the same piece.

Pre-form and dop

Rough out the elongated outline and mount pavilion-side up, keeping both long sides equal from the start.

Cut the pavilion in tiers

Work the pavilion facets tier by tier, checking the center of the stone regularly for an emerging bow-tie shadow.

Transfer and cut the crown

Transfer carefully to keep the long axis aligned, then cut the crown and table to finish.

Pitfalls specific to this cut

The bow-tie effect

A dark area across the center, caused by pavilion angles that are slightly off for the stone’s elongated proportions. Check for it early, it is much easier to correct before the crown is cut.

Uneven long sides

Asymmetry is more visible on an oval than on a round cut, keep both long sides mirrored as you cut each tier.

Ready for something more unconventional?

Once round, oval, and princess cuts feel comfortable, modern and freeform designs are the natural next step.

Explore Modern Cuts →