Princess Cut
Intermediate
You are comfortable with a round brilliant
Chipping at the four corners
A square brilliant valued for its fire and for using more of the original rough than a round cut typically allows. If you have not yet cut a round brilliant, start there first, the tier and meet point logic is identical here, just applied to a square outline instead of a circle.
What makes it different
Unlike the round brilliant, the princess cut has four corners and straight sides, cut as a square or rectangular brilliant pattern. There is no culet, the pavilion facets meet at a ridge or small keel line instead of a single point. The corners are the most fragile part of the stone, both during cutting and afterward, so they are usually left very slightly blunted rather than perfectly sharp.
Step by step
Princess cuts are efficient for material that is already roughly rectangular, plan the outline to use as much of the stone as possible.
Rough out the square outline and mount pavilion-side up, keeping the corners equal in length from the start.
Work the pavilion facets tier by tier as with a round brilliant, taking extra care as you approach the four corners.
Transfer carefully, corners chip more easily than a rounded girdle during this step, then cut the crown and table.
Pitfalls specific to this cut
The four corners are the most vulnerable point on the stone. Handle and grind them gently, both while cutting and during any later setting.
Straight facets make unevenness easier to spot than on a round cut, keep the pavilion symmetric before moving to the crown.
Build on this cut
Ready for another shape?
The oval cut builds on the same fundamentals with a different silhouette.
Explore the Oval Cut →